Hi Masi ,
Thanks , The wing can be folded or trimmed to give a different profile.
I know, and like the Goddards caddis , but after a while the deer hair gets soaked which causes the fly to sink - something which does not happen to foam , plus the killer caddis is much easier to tie....... I am a bit challenged by deer hair.... especially on small hooks.
Nice fly but I'm not sure that fish takes that as caddis but something else, or well you don't never know surely ;) But foam wing is too wide in my opinion to imitate caddis on the water surface. Check out for example some pictures from the web how the caddis looks like on the water surface, in my opinion narrow winged patterns imitate better caddis on the water suface on drift :)
One really good caddis imitation is made from deer hair like Coddard caddis but with parachute hackle and no other body than deer hair, that's great caddis pattern and floats well too.
I have noticed that using narrow wing pattern is better than wider.
Something like that on the image, body can still be however more narrow than in the image (hook size in the image is #14 and #16).
http://www.perhokalastajat.net/kuvagalleria/albums/userpics/caddiksia.j…
http://www.freeweb.hu/flyfish-hungary/Killer%20Caddis1.JPG
Debarb the hook, and lay a thread foundation
http://www.freeweb.hu/flyfish-hungary/Killer%20Caddis2.JPG
Make a thin body with antron dubbing
http://www.freeweb.hu/flyfish-hungary/Killer%20Caddis3.JPG
Now tie the hackle feather about 1/3 from the front of the shank
http://www.freeweb.hu/flyfish-hungary/Killer%20Caddis4.JPG
Spin the hackle, 2 turns should be enough , tie off and cut the remainder of the hackle
http://www.freeweb.hu/flyfish-hungary/Killer%20Caddis5.JPG
Now cut out a triangular piece of 1mm craft foam , the size will be dictated by the hook you are using , but the foam should never extend past the bend of the hook - this will lead to fewer hook ups
http://www.freeweb.hu/flyfish-hungary/Killer%20Caddis6.JPG
The foam needs to be secured in two places, once where the hackle finishes, and again behind the eye of the hook,this avoids the foam staying flat which makes the fly twist during casting.
http://www.freeweb.hu/flyfish-hungary/Killer%20Caddis7.JPG
You can now tie in the antennae , this is an optional extra - the fly works just as well without it...
http://www.freeweb.hu/flyfish-hungary/Killer%20Caddis8.JPG
Thats it.....easy or what ? this is the bottom view, looks like a caddis to me..give it a try and tight lines & screaming reels !
Just wondering if you can help. I am looking for for a rod holder for the top of my car. I recently saw some magnetic and suction combined holders. I can't remember where I saw them and was wandering if you would know where I can find such things.
Wow, amazing trout! But is this really brown trout or sea trout with spawning colouration?
Esox,
Now that a few days have gone by, I do feel that even seeing a big cat was a cool experience and I am glad that neither of us had a bad outcome.
We have lots of bears, both Blacks and Griz, and moose up here. I see probably 40-50 bears a year with all the time I spend either fishing or hunting. This year they have been a little more elusive, I've only seen maybe a dozen all total. One of them has been hanging around the house the last couple of weeks. (I live out in the sticks) Bears never really bother me, you can read them pretty accurately and I've never really had a huge problem with a bear. I did have to bean one in the head with a softball sized rock a couple years ago when it made a couple false charges at me across the river I was fishing. Cats on the other hand are stealthy and very intelligent predators. It's a good thing that we humans don't taste all that good to animals.... 😉
To George Cleavland: I have tied and fished all of these in the New river boulders and eddies on a 1/0 mustad 3366. The Silver Lady seems to work best in the Summer here.
Tom Williams, Lolamy Fly & Tackle Company
PS: A twenty pound mono weed guard is a plus although out of character for the days of these flies.
You are one lucky guy for a number of reasons. First for me is that you got to see a Cougar. Second is that you survived a close encounter of the first kind. I have seen Bobcats but a Cougar would be superb. In Belize I stayed on a huge ranch. They brushed the roads at sunset so they could see what they had prowling around the next morning. One morning we had Jaguar tracks on several of the roads that we were on the night before. I was excited just to think that one of them might have been watching me that night. And scared.
While fishing in the Shenandoahs I have seen about ten Black Bears over the last five years. They will spook you, too. At least we don't have Grizzlies and Moose down here. But Copperheads are all over the place around here. My wife and I saw a beauty this past Saturday on Bull Run.
Hi Martin, Many thanks for the kind comments on my book "Fly Fishing the Great Western Rivers". Life is good. I'm going fishing today near my home in the Adirondack Mountains of upstate New York. Maybe you and I can fish together someday. For the time being, Tight Lines! Ralph Kylloe
Fantastic. I already had the Bergman page bookmarked and happened to see this link there. I'm thinking of tying up a few of these old wets and attaching them to a multiple cast leader and then fishing down through the boulder gardens of my local smallie river. I wonder how they'd stack up to the Buggers, Madonnas and Rabbit Leeches I use now.
[quote:347c4a59fa]I suppose the main reason why I always enjoy to argue that a rod between a 5 and 7 weight is perfect for the Danish salt, is because I know the weight in question can handle Danish salt and the size of fish present.
I see many thrashing the water with heavy #9 and even #10 weights. Why? [/quote:347c4a59fa]
Even a 7 could be to heavy..?
The below taken on 5 weights.
Rippers
Jonathan and others,
I don't want to be the one who tries to be "the wise guy" here, but just recap my own and a few fellow angler's experience from our last many years of coastal fishing in Denmark.
Most of us fish with 5 or 6 weights these days - whenever the conditions allow it. Some use 9' rods some slightly longer 9'6" rods. We usually have some sturdier rods as a backup, mostly 6-7 weights, rarely 8 weights and never 9 or 10 weights.
The reason for choosing 5 or 6 weights are manyfold, but my personal reasons are the following:
- Casting a 5 weight is a lot more fun than a 7 or 8 weight. And coastal fishing is a lot about casting, particularly if you don't have well trained eyes to spot fish and likely lies.
- Catching a fish is a lot more fun on a 5 weight than on a 7 or 8 weight. The average fish is fairly small (40-45 cm) and no problem handling on a 5 weight. Larger fish can be challenging, but we have caught and landed sea trout and rainbows up to 5 kilos and more on these light rods.
- Modern 5 weights are a far cry from past time's stream rods. You can get fast and firm rods with saltwater eyes and a fighting butt.
- Presentation is A LOT more important than most people fishing for sea trout think. Spooking fish is probably the most common reason for not catching anything when fish are around. Sea trout (and escaped rainbows) sometimes go VERY close to the shore in VERY shallow water, and heavy gear is the last thing you need and want.
- Personally I use WF-lines more and more often over shooting heads, and stress the importance of distance less and less. I have shooting heads for 5 and 6 weights, but prefer a good WF-line in most situations. The 8 weight might have more backbone for distance casting, but when distance is second to presentation, well...
The 5-weight can be hard to cast in really severe wind, but so can an 8-weight.
I will bring a bunch of rods for the Summit in the 5-7 weight range, and provided I get them back in one piece (or at least as many pieces as they were on the outset), anybody can borrow and test these rods during the weekend - provided I have one to fish with myself. The Summit is as a whole a very good place to try out all kinds of rod and line combinations.
http://globalflyfisher.com/reports/gffsummit2006/mj0_3522.jpg
Martin
Th etrip over to the GFF summit looks doubtful. In the next three months shall be going to GB twice and Bergen, so I've been assured by the boss that the holiday pot is empty! Maybe next year.
As regards your 10ft'er. Shouldn't be a problem, though your arm may get tired quicker from casting with a 10' as opposed to a 9'. Though with that said, you'll be able to spey/roll cast alot better with a 10ft rod in hard to cast areas.
The reel you describe is just the ticket. By all accounts a very good reel and saltwater proof I believe.
So it sounds like you're sorted!
James, that's a great shot and better capture, i'm an outfitter from the chilean patagonia, and also te webmaster of a flyfishing site www.pescador.cl, and i would love to have that capture on a fishing history, please contact to me by my email, info@pescador.cl, regards.
Hi Wiggy,
Thanks for the advice/words of wisdom!
Are you going to the summit :?:
I have a 10ft #7/8 reservoir rod which I'm going to take to the summit, it's got a fast action and can throw out a good line in a wind. I've used it on the Oslo fjord and it's had no problems so I'm sure it'll be fine for the Summit!
My casting is not the best, I'm self taught 🙄 so never had lessons - hopefully some of the guys at the summit can give me some advice on technique!
Thinking about going for the LOOP CLWC 5eight reel as mentioned in one of my previous threads, should be just the job for SWFFing!
Thanks again
Jonathan
Hi again Jonathan.
It both agree and disagree with the advice you've got so far. I guess you'll be fishing Oslofjorden and those areas, and if you'll be fishing with flies directed towards sea trout, you'll be picking up cod, pollack and bass as an added bonus.
I've SWFF'ed now in the last 5 years about 5-6 months a year. My standard set-up is a 9ft stiff rod rated for an #8. This rod has the back bone to handle strong winds and big fish. Anything lower than an #7-8 will be too light to handle big cod and pollack.
Now I don't know whether you're a profficent caster, but using a #5 for a relative beginner along the norwegian coast will cause too much frustration due to wind and the such. I use a #6 when the wind isn't too strong, but this is only after I really got to grips with shooting heads and double hauls.
So my advice is:-
Get a light weight 9-9.5ft 7 or 8 weight rod with a saltwater resistant/proof reel and a shooting head set-up. A floater is mostly used with a slow sinker on cold days and a fast sinker for getting done to the cod/pollack if you're out after them.
After you're happy with your casting or in flat calms or near flat calms, progress to a 5 or 6 weight.
Most I know use a #7 as standard, and even go down to a #4.
Good luck with whatever to choose to go for.
Hi Martin, what a neat and versatile pattern. I have tied tube flies before but always had a problem adapting them to single hooks (where I live we can only use single hooks). Your pattern has obviously solved this problem. This fly pattern could be made more versatile by adding various coloured underbodies to the hook shaft. I can hardly wait to try this pattern out.
Tight lines,
Herb
Great looking fly. With the hook up it will work almost anyplace. Thanks for the great recipe. Clyde
The beatles cool looks the part, of to tie some now, i love tying flies out of foam and the many ranges of colours, makes some of the patterns easier to adapt for terrestrials. Thanks Jan
Hi there, I usually use 9ft 8wt rod for my salwater fishing. 10,5ft rod seems to me too long. It is not so easy cast whole day into the wind with so long rod. And danish coast can be very windy. So that is the main reason for me to use shorter rod.
I also use tappered braided leader made from monofilament in lenght of 5 feets. 4 feets of tippet made from 0,23mm fluocarbon are attached to the leader. I have used WF lines so far, but I have recently ordered RIO Outbond line, so I will try it soon
Hey,
I have no street cred. By all means buy it, use and catch with it.
I tried the reel today and I am really happy with it. Very impressed.
As for the GFF summit...I imagine I will result back to the old battered Fenwick Nighthawk but I will certainly have the LOOP CLWC as a back up in the car.
Regards
The waters very Ripley
Hi Ripley,
I've been looking at those Loop CLW reels as well, they're not too expensive and they get great reviews!
Done a bit of researchl! Apparently the clear one is better as its stronger and lighter than the black one! It is made from the same material that riot shields are made of and is virtually indestructable! click here its the thread posted by "TheKeeper" close to the bottom!
They are selling them in the UK at the same price for black or clear!
Might be tempted to go for the clear as well !!! (Hope that wouldn't spoil your street cred!)
See you at the summit.
Jonathan[/url]
Jonathan,
Unfortunately, I can't give any recommendations for the reel you mentioned.
For 4 years I have used a Fenwick Nighthawk, as in the picture. It's pretty robust and takes a hammering and to be frank...What ever you are going to use for the salt - must be able to stand the most corrosive element on the planet - salt.
I also know that the VISION XLA is pretty darn good and most of the reels made in Composite from Loop, Vision and Scierra. There are so many on the market so choose well and don't be sucked into buying something that equals a household mortgage.
The main thing you want is a reel that can stand the salt, minimum moving parts and a good drag.
I have just received today, a LOOP CLWC.
I have heard it robust and thought I'd treat myself and besides...It looks dandy.
Allan...
My Fenwick is a 2 piece but I doubt there's little difference between the two.
Good hunting. I am also out this weekend for sea trout.
I am sure the Fenwick will do you justice.
Tight lines
Ripley
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